The AW16 collection from Qasimi draws influences from the fierece nature of the sea and protection from the elements. The collection explores the Yemeni community that worked in ship yards during the 19th century and the result is  hybrid garments and Yemeni floral patterns.

Born in the UAE, Khalid bin Sultan Al Qasimi was raised in the UK and graduated from Central Saint Martins. Having started a womenswear label in 2008, before expanding into menswear, he restructured and returned with a different approach – minimalist tone with influences from architecture and military aesthetics.

Made up of an opulent autumnal palette and oversized silhouettes, bomber jackets, wide leg trousers, elongated coats hug the wearer snugly in the lookbook with the use of fabrics like wool and silk. Shirting in poplin and voile cottons give a well-balanced contrast and tie in the collection.

Qasimi collaborated with artist Petra Broner on prints including hand drawn knots and cut out florals. The graphics are a nice addition that accentuate the cultural influences without overpowering the aesthetics that the designer wanted to achieve. 

While he had the creative freedom designing womenswear, his collections, since the restructure, sees a heavy focus on construction and finishing. Like many designers, Qasimi realised it is about details such as internal finishes that matter in menswear. He says that menswear is about “things that you discover through time and which become part of the garment itself.”

The overall tone of the range has a lush appeal with artful details and while the approach seems more audacious compared to the SS16 collection, the cultural influences appear more prevalent and well-rounded here.